16/05/11 | Onshore Chocolate

After April's amazing run of sunshine and great surf, May has been a bit of a disappointment - back to changeable weather and lots of onshores. Oh well, it was nice while it lasted. So in lieu of surfing I've finally cracked open a pack of Polaroid Chocolate film and it's like lith printing without all of the darkroom stress; a perfect Polaroid swansong.

11/04/10 | Summer has arrived...

...well nearly anyway.

30/03/10 | We made it

British Summer Time is here!

OK, it's still raining and cold outside, but IT'S LIGHT after work and my winter wetsuit's days are numbered...summer rubber here we come YEEW!

23/03/10 | I'm Possible

Photo © Nancy L. Stockdale

They said it wasn't possible, but it is.

I don't really know what I was expecting from the Impossible Project's first film. I'll be honest, when they announced that they would be starting with monochrome I wasn't that excited. I can develop and print my own black and white film, and it's the colour of Polaroid film that I really love. But when the first sample photographs were unveiled yesterday I instantly (no pun intended) fell in love. These are no crisp, contrasty black and white images. They are soft, dreamy, almost like lith prints - in short they are magic, just like a Polaroid should be and I can't wait to see my first print developing before my eyes.

21/02/10 | Different horizons

05/02/10 | Get the log ready!*

I've been ignoring the surf forecast recently and only looking when I actually go to the beach, that way I don't get disappointed when the swell promised on the 8 day forecast doesn't turn up (or more likely is accompanied by howling onshores). So I haven't looked at all this week, but I thought I'd have a quick see if there's anything for tomorrow and it looks like next week is going to be cooking! Which means now I am all excited thinking about all the spots that will be working on that swell and wondering if I can wangle some time off work next week...



* 2.08, we shout this around the house now

12/01/10 | "Old Guys Rule"

My dad was 60 a few weeks ago, how is that possible?

Work to live, not live to work.

Office jobs and surfing don't mix particularly well, but for the last four years I have been fortunate enough to work for a company that understands and values a good work-life balance. In the summer I start early and leave early, in the winter I start late and finish late, so I can surf during the week throughout the year. I've never had to pull a sickie when the surf's on - if I mention the surf is going to be good later in the week I get offered some time off, and when I come in late and salty with a wetsuit to dry in my office no-one complains.

All this came to an abrupt end ten days ago when the company went into administration, another victim of the recession. We're still trading for the moment whilst a buyer is sought, but nothing is guaranteed, and my bosses were told to leave immediately.

Whilst I should probably be worrying about my long-term job prospects - as head office staff I'm in a particularly vulnerable position - I've mainly been reflecting on how lucky I've been to work for an employer that truly understands about surfing and is willing to be flexible around it. Tim & Daren: a surfer couldn't ask for more accommodating manager than you two, I don't know how I'm going to get another job that will compare to this one.

So the last ten days have been incredibly busy, stressful, and emotional. Despite this I had a great weekend; I bought a new board at the St Merryn Surf Jumble on Saturday - not particularly sensible give the job situation (photos etc to follow!) - and had a nice little surf on it on Sunday at the spot pictured. For the moment my late starts & finishes are staying, and I've managed to wangle this Friday off too; now it's just a case of waiting to see what the new year brings.

Stay stoked...

(click image to see clearer)

A tragedy befell Mark's lovely Wegener alaia this afternoon.
He took it remarkably well considering, and apparently it will be 'even better' once it has been glued back together. Either that or he'll have a nice pair of skis plus a spare...


Happier times:

Fall 'Roid Week 2009

Join in here.

Onshore stoke

For one moment paddling out yesterday I didn't think I was going to make it. I almost hadn't gone in, the grey day and onshore surf wasn't exactly inviting. 8 feet at 12 seconds with a stiff onshore breeze coupled with two weeks of either being too busy to get in or the wrong tides in the limited pre-work daylight meant the whitewater seemed to go on forever. I don't know how many rolls later, but suddenly I was out there. Just being in the water clears your head and makes everything seem better. A righthander appeared and I was in the perfect position, nice steep takeoff and down the line, Chris hooting and shouting me to cut back, then a long noseride as it walled up on the inside. I was almost all the way back to the beach, but it's amazing how much energy a great wave gives you. I got paddling, a few rolls later and I was back in the lineup with a big smile on my face.

Watch out Elliot...

Andre: Elliot [Dudley]'s so good isn't he?
Norm: Yeah, really really good. I'd shag him.

A week of watching the sun rise

I sometimes think surfing was almost more exciting when I didn't live here. My whole week revolved around the forecast for the weekend, deciding where to go, booking campsites, pleading with my boss to be let out early on Friday, spending six hours in the car on Friday night just in the hope that there might be something surfable. Having the surf permanently on your doorstep can lead to a certain level of complacency; I certainly don't obsess about surfing like I used to, it's just a normal part of my life.

But there's something special about getting up when it's dark and cold outside and driving down empty roads; spurred on by the knowledge that there are still three hours before work and a clean offshore swell waiting at the beach. Arriving at the beach and straining to see the waves in the pre-dawn light, watching the stars disappear as you pull your wetsuit on, seeing the sun rise over the sand dunes between sets, spending the day at work with a salty smile on your face. That's what surfing's about.

I'm possible

"We are pleased to herewith announce a history making cooperation between Polaroid and The Impossible Project:As we have created quite some buzz about Analog Instant Photography over the past 12 months, the Polaroid licensee - The Summit Global Group - now can't resist any longer and announced at a press conference on October 13th in Hongkong that they will re-launch some of the most famous Polaroid Instant Cameras.Therefore they are commissioning The Impossible Project to develop and produce a limited edition of Polaroid branded Instant Films in the middle of 2010."

Not surf-related I know, but this is encouraging news. More cameras = more demand for film, which can only be a good thing. Read more at the impossible project.

the golden hour

It was so peaceful in the water tonight, I wish I could have taken my Nikonos out with me. Seagulls were cruising out to sea just a few inches above the water; hardly any wind, and a beautiful suset.

The surf was cleaning up nicely too and getting towards shoulder/head high on the sets; might have to dust off the 9'1 for the rest of the week. Cold feet walking back though; I stayed out until I could barely see the waves approaching and it was only twenty five past seven when I got back to the car. Got to make the most of these last few weeks of BST.

I did go, and it stopped raining.

Sometimes you have to take a step back and appreciate what you've got.