Sunday 1 November 2009
For one moment paddling out yesterday I didn't think I was going to make it. I almost hadn't gone in, the grey day and onshore surf wasn't exactly inviting. 8 feet at 12 seconds with a stiff onshore breeze coupled with two weeks of either being too busy to get in or the wrong tides in the limited pre-work daylight meant the whitewater seemed to go on forever. I don't know how many rolls later, but suddenly I was out there. Just being in the water clears your head and makes everything seem better. A righthander appeared and I was in the perfect position, nice steep takeoff and down the line, Chris hooting and shouting me to cut back, then a long noseride as it walled up on the inside. I was almost all the way back to the beach, but it's amazing how much energy a great wave gives you. I got paddling, a few rolls later and I was back in the lineup with a big smile on my face.