21/11/10 | The Cruel Mistress

Pumping all week while I've been ill / working, nearly flat at the weekend. Sigh. Nearly time to get the boots out too.

Forecast w/c 9th November

Got in before work this morning just in case it was the only chance we'll get this week. Hardly any wind and a nice misty sunrise.

It was only 4 degrees at the beach; I saw three people in boots, gloves and hoods - what do they do in February?! I'm still stringing out my summer suit and it was quite warm in the water, but my hands and feet had completely gone in the very short walk between the water and my car.

Onshore stoke

For one moment paddling out yesterday I didn't think I was going to make it. I almost hadn't gone in, the grey day and onshore surf wasn't exactly inviting. 8 feet at 12 seconds with a stiff onshore breeze coupled with two weeks of either being too busy to get in or the wrong tides in the limited pre-work daylight meant the whitewater seemed to go on forever. I don't know how many rolls later, but suddenly I was out there. Just being in the water clears your head and makes everything seem better. A righthander appeared and I was in the perfect position, nice steep takeoff and down the line, Chris hooting and shouting me to cut back, then a long noseride as it walled up on the inside. I was almost all the way back to the beach, but it's amazing how much energy a great wave gives you. I got paddling, a few rolls later and I was back in the lineup with a big smile on my face.

Watch out Elliot...

Andre: Elliot [Dudley]'s so good isn't he?
Norm: Yeah, really really good. I'd shag him.