Sunday, 6 April 2014

06/04/14 | Bye Bye Stripey

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When a surfboard's right it feels like a piece of you. I knew as soon as I first surfed this board that it was right. But then in California I tried Chris's Quiver Q-Pro, and that really felt right. So I ordered one, and reluctantly polished poor Stripey up ready to sell. Testament to Fluid Juice's bomb-proof glassing (and my preference for avoiding busy breaks) it looked as good as it did the day I picked it up over 7 years ago, and without a single ding. The very next day it was despatched to its new owner Nina in Polzeath.

I'm still torn. That board feels like a big part of my surfing identity, I've had people come up and say hi because they've recognised me by it, it's strange to think of someone else riding it. Maybe I should have retired it to rest out its days on the wall - sitting typing in my spare room I can't help but think it would look good in here. In the end though it's just a board, and it's time for me to move on to a new board that will challenge my progressive surfing. Nina let me know the other day that she's enjoying it, I'm glad it's gone to a great home and hope she loves it as much as I did.


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My original spray design, and the finished board on its maiden voyage in Morocco, January 2007.

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One of my first surfs on it, Morocco 2007. Photo Mike Stevens.

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Nina's first surf with it, Polzeath 2014. Photo @ninazietman

Monday, 16 December 2013

16/12/13 | Winter blues

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If I had just one tip for winter surf trips it would be this: wait until after Christmas. Give yourself the prospect of a nice hot trip in February to get you through the winter.

We went to California in October. Despite the warm water and balmy Californian climate I was actually looking forward to coming home to some nice cold-but-empty waves. I had a new board to ride and was feeling super paddle fit. Oh the surf, such a cruel mistress, it had other ideas. Howling winds and solid rain for nearly six weeks, all the while the days getting shorter and shorter and the water temperature plummetting. The trip quickly became a distant memory.

I always struggle in the winter, but with our winter trip already behind me I'm finding this winter particularly difficult. Nothing's really firing me up, I'm demotivated, and if procrastinating were an Olympic sport I'd get the gold. I started writing a post about the trip on the 4th of November, somehow it's taken me two months to sort out my film photos and get something together. But it's done, and if it's not too depressing to even look at some warm waves and blue skies you can see the full set here.

Tuesday, 1 October 2013

01/10/13 | Nordfor Sola / North of the Sun


Nordfor Sola (North of the Sun) was the standout film for me from last year's London Surf Film Festival, and it's finally available to watch / download on Vimeo. It's not free, but trust me this will be the best surf film you've seen in a long time.

Friday, 27 September 2013

27/09/13 | Cruel & Curious Sea - Today!

The Cruel & Curious Sea art exhibition is today! Can't believe how quickly it's come around. Here's a few teasers of what other people are showing:





Artists (top to bottom) Daniel Scott, Lee Robertson, Rob Weare, Danni Bradford

Friday, 20 September 2013

20/09/13 | Events

OK so Surftember has been a bit of a disappointment so far, but the forecast's looking good for next week, the sun's coming back, and there are loads of events to look forward to. Contests, exhibitions, meets, the weekends are getting pretty booked up! First up this week it's the Greenaway Pro, the surf comp's not had the best swell to run in, but there's a film night tonight (including an exclusive from us at Finisterre) and tomorrow night's wrap up and Sandsifter should be good. I'm showing some of my photos at the Cruel & Curious Sea art exhibition the weekend after up in Bude, there's a real mix of people showing their work, I can't wait.







Monday, 9 September 2013

09/09/13 | Autumn

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I love Autumn, I dread Autumn. I love summer, who doesn't? But as the holiday season reaches its peak I dream of crisp Autumn mornings and empty glassy waves. Then Autumn arrives, the promised swells fail to arrive, and meanwhile the days get colder and shorter and shorter. I wonder why I wished the Summer away.

Sunday, 1 September 2013

01/09/13 | SURFtember

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Yes yes, the summer is over, Surftember is here! My favorite month of the year - empty beaches, warm water, ground swells, offshores and sunshine. Here's hoping...