What a month July's been - three weeks of flat heatwave sandwiched between a couple of good swells.
I've been enjoying surfing more than ever recently, feeling relaxed and confident on a variety of wave riding equipment, but I've been enjoying being under the water almost as much. I loved swimming underwater as a child, and I still always have my eyes open when I go under, but somehow surfing in cold water I forgot just how much I enjoy being under the water as well as on top of it. The way the light dapples on the surface, the airbubbles as a wave breaks overhead, the sand storms in the currents. I almost wish it would stay flat. Almost.
No comments:
Post a Comment