So. Hawaii. What an amazing trip, I am totally in love with the place. I don't really think I can put it into words how awesome our trip was, so I'll post more as my photos arrive back from the lab and I get scanning; but I suppose I should try and say something about the surf...
We knew that going to Hawaii in the winter carried the risk of it being massive on the North Shore and flat on the south with nothing in between, but luckily there was a small south swell while we were in Waikiki.
Waikiki has a bit of a poor reputation for being super-touristy and too built up, but I felt right at home; it was like a beautiful tropical Newquay but without the stag dos! Everyone in the water was really laid back and friendly, locals were calling us onto waves and more than happy to share. I was truly in heaven surfing Pops in a bikini at 7am. It sounds cheesy, but I really did get a thrill just from walking past the Duke statue with my board under my arm, and I can't wait to go back there. We were really fortunate to be recommended Koa Boardsports who hired us surftec In the Pinks and Model Ts (which we both loved); they also provided free 24-hour access board storage and would hold onto your stuff for you during the day. We'll definitely be hiring from them again.
On the North Shore it was a totally different story; most of the shops wouldn't rent out boards as it was too big. We spent several hours just stood watching at Pipeline and Waimea, feeling totally humbled. There was a fair number of girls in the water on a huge day at Waimea too. I didn't feel confident (or do I mean aggressive?) enough to surf on the North or Leeward Shore, but Chris discovered that the locals aren't quite so welcoming to haoles at Makaha and Haleiwa, while I stayed on the beach and took photos.
The great thing about Hawaii is that there is so much more to do than just surfing; we packed in more than we thought was possible in our two week trip. On one day you can swim in a geothermal heated tide pool with tropical fish nibbling you, and climb to the top of a snow-covered mountain. It really is the most incredible place. Before we left Jamie Watson of the excellent PineappleLuv said in this post 'There is not one day that goes by that I don't think of the Hawaiian islands'. I think I can now safely say the same.
Aah the Duke! My first visit to that place, struck me with awe and wonderment too! It certainly has a certain feel, doesn't it?
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